Last night in Albergue La Puerta de Najerra was terrific. After a paella dinner that included a bottle of Riojas best wine we spent a few minutes talking to the women from Argentina who were on our flight from Madrid.
They are all in their sixties and they really love adventures and sharing them as friends.
The times I have seen them on the Camino they have had a face full of make up and are coordinated beautifully.
They are also doing the Camino in stages and have another week to get to Burgos.
Today we will be staying at one of Spain’s famous Historical Parador Hotels.
Paradors are historic buildings like Palaces, Castles, Monasteries, Convents, Fortresses and other historic buildings that have been converted to hotels. The main purpose of these building is to preserve the heritage of Spain. The hotels are run and maintained by the state and the money earned goes to maintain the historic treasure of the region they serve.
We were fortunate enough to find a great deal for the Parador in Santo Domingo de La Calzada. It was a great way to end our journey and have a true taste of Spain at its finest.
We made our way to Santo Domingo via local transportation. Between the torrential rain, thunderstorms, and 30 Km that separated Najerra and Santo Domingo we feel we did right thing by taking the local bus.
Santo Domingo de La Calzada is a favorite destination of many pilgrims.
It is a mix of charming old and large metropolis where modern comforts can be found. Upon our arrival to the beautiful building, we were certain that a room would not be available until later but to our delight we were greeted like royalty and given a beautifully appointed room with beautiful classic Spanish decor and furnishings.
Our Parador is a 12th-century hospital near the cathedral, erected by Santo Domingo or St. Dominic to take in pilgrims traveling on the Way of St. James. It has a regal, elegant style, with majestic function rooms and a lobby filled with Gothic arches and wood coffered ceilings.
After a quick restorative nap (yes naps are awesome), we headed to find some food. This of course included some pinchos and a refreshing drink.
Pinchos are so amazingly varied here. I loved trying different flavors and finding new tastes that I enjoy.
After getting fueled up we went to find Santo Domingo’s Famous Cathedral.
This town as I mentioned was named after Santo Domingo (St. Dominic) who used to tend to the needs and cares of Pilgrims. The town is situated in the banks of the Oja River. Santo Domingo also built a bridge and the Cathedral. He is considered the patron saint of engineers.
Santo Domingo de la Calzada is also the site of the miracle of the “hanged innocent” a pilgrim wrongly accused of theft. This young man was traveling with his parents to Santiago. He rebuked the advances of the innkeeper’s daughter. Angry and with revenge in her mind she hid a piece of silver in his bag and accused him
of theft. He was tried and hung according The the story. His grieving parents went on to Santiago and completed their pilgrimage.
Upon the return walk home they went back to see the body of their son. They were surprised he was still alive well after months of being left hanging. They heard a voice saying that the he had been kept alive by the saint who had lifted him all that time. His parents quickly made their way to see the magistrate. The magistrate, who is at the time eating dinner, remarks: “Your son is as alive as this rooster and chicken that I was feasting on before you interrupted me.” And in that moment, the two birds jumped from the plate and began to sing and crow.
To this day, a pair of the cooked chickens descendants are kept alive and well in the choir loft of the Cathedral overlooking the crypt where the saint’s relics are kept.
I love this story and the fact that it blends typical folklore, faith and tradition.
The Cathedral is gorgeous and it houses some of the most impressive religious art collections in all of Spain. It dates back to early Roman Empire times, through a Gothic, Baroque, Renaissance and Modern art.
You can also see that the chickens are a huge part of the town’s identity for you can see them depicted in all places.
After exploring some more, I got to climb the bell tower of the Cathedral. This bell tower is one of three that still remain. The tower is about 6 stories high and I was delighted that you can climb to the top and see the gorgeous scenic view of Rioja. I loved seeing all of the bells, each of which is designated to ring for a particular reason. One for sorrowful times, one for celebrations and joyful occasions and for everyday marking of time.
I asked if I could ring the bells and the tower keeper told me that had I arrived before 5 o’clock, I could have done it.
The view from the top took my breath away. It was impressive as it was delightful. I could see the roads I had walk as far as the eyes could see. I was amazed at my fortitude of body and spirit to walk all that way. I was also grateful for the gift of my husband and his love and support that had encouraged me and carried me this far.
I walked around the bells and looked West and saw that my journey was far from over. I saw that although I am leaving this road behind for now, my Camino is not over and there will be a day I will pick up from this mystic lovely town.
The road to Santiago will also go with me. The lessons I have learned will forever be a part of me. My fellow pilgrims and their stories will be imprinted in my heart. The kindness of the Spanish people who supported, cared and fed us pilgrims will always make me smile.
At dinner we went to have a typical Spanish Parrillada or grilled meat dinner. We met up with Nicole the lovely young woman from Germany who I had met up with prior to entering Najarra.
Spending time with her at dinner was the perfect ending to our Camino adventure. She is a veteran of the Camino having completed more than five times. It was so wonderful to hear about all the amazing Camino experiences she has had. Similarly to me, she loves the people she meets and embraces the beauty of each place she visits. She loves finding out about the hidden gems like the Convents were nuns spoil you, Albergues where the Hospitaleros feed you like kings, but most of all the deep sense of spirituality you get from sharing your stories with your fellow pilgrims.
As the evening grew to a close we exchanged contact information and as pilgrims often do, promised to keep in touch. We hugged and said our last Buen Camino and parted ways.
It was a bitter sweet moment since unlike her, our journey home was about to begin.
Before falling asleep I looked at the stamps in my Pilgrim Credential that will one day earn me my Compostela. Each stamp represents a bit of sweat, hard work, several Kilometers, delicious food, a lot of laughter and perhaps some tears.
I think that in our daily life we have all of this and more. The only difference is that we don’t take the time to pause and be reminded by a stamp. We live from day to day taking for granted how each moment we live is a gift.
This is why I travel. To be reminded I am part of a larger world than that around me at home.
I hope that as I resume my daily life, I can be present and continue to live as full a life as ever. Loving my daily tasks, never taking for granted my partner in this journey (Dan) and hopefully I can leave my well defined footprint on this earth.
Buen Camino.
Due to slow WiFi pics will be added later. For now pics are included on a separate FB post.
NY RedRose 