NY RedRose

As we awoke in Vianna we found that CJ from our Albergue was already hard at work. She was preparing breakfast, giving directions, making sure everyone had their stuff and all of this running around was done with a smile.

As I prepared our stuff, I got the chance to talk some more to this amazing young woman. She is American yet you would not know it from her accent.

She has been in over 30, countries, she served in the military and for the time being she continues to call the world her home.

CJ has a servant heart, does not like injustice and over the course of her young life has conquered adversity that would leave many paralyzed with fear and bitterness. She has completed the Camino de Santiago twice. As the nomad that she is, she will soon move on to a new country to serve and live and share life with others.

I look back at my life and wonder why I was so afraid at her age to take the leap and see the world.

I guess in the end, I am where I need to be. I would not change life and experiences for anything. I have been blessed, I have had tough roads and now I have the opportunity to give of myself to those around me.

One thing I noticed today, is that my joints are pretty tight. I attribute this to the small amount of water I am drinking as I walk. My main reason for this is that I do not want to go in the wilderness. Also, for as much as I love bread, I have eaten more of it in one week than I probably have in the last 6 months at home.

Today I planned my meals as much as I could and made a metal note to drink enough water to float away if needed.

As we made our way out of Vianna, we saw many of the same familiar herd of pilgrims that we walk with daily.

The road today promised to be fairly flat and mostly a downward walk into town.

The conversation between Dan and I tends to be a good amount of friendly banter, retrospective of our lives as individuals and as husband and wife.

I love that there isn’t anything I cannot share with this man of mine. He also has the ability to share his thoughts and heart.

We walked our first 5 KM without much of a break. Finally at some point we did sit and talked some more as the scent of the wild flowers surrounded us.

Dan has figured out that as we talk, if he plays a little song as we hit an incline this will distract me a bit and it won’t be as hard.

At one point, the frustration of the physical toll on our bodies did get the best of us. Dan tends to give me space and walks ahead. I tend to stand still and twirl my walking poles as if I was back in Marching band in High-school.

Over all as in our life together we have created a rhythm that helps us support each other as needed, while providing space when necessary.

At one point while walking in silence, I realized that the inclines for me are difficult and the knowledge of the difficulty ahead makes me more apt to want to avoid it.

In life I have also spent my time trying to avoid pain and when paid and sorrow have found me, I have done my best to buffer it with many things.

As we neared the entrance of the city, church steeples arose in the near horizon, I walked faster and passed Dan. Here it was the decent that come easy for me while for him, they test his joints enough to slow his larger stride.

At one point I came across an adorable little cottage with a friendly old woman sitting on her porch welcoming pilgrims to her city, Logroño.

She had a stamp and I quickly pulled out my credentials to gain another much covered stamp.

As Dan neared, I spoke to her and learned that by selling a few trinkets and water to pilgrims she made enough for her and her husband to live.

They are not rich, they are not poor. Financially that is…

They are comfortable.

I wonder if this type of life could be replicated in CT?

Can we give up the excess of our lifestyle? I guess we don’t really live an extravagant life but we are comfortable.

As Dan caught up with me spoke to her some more and she told us we had little distance ahead.

Sure enough,

As we walked down a tree line street we saw the river Ebro. A stone bridge at the end of the street would take us to city proper.

Prior to reaching crossing the bridge we stopped with other pilgrims and soaked our aching feet in a cool fountain in this park area. The water was shockingly cold and it number my feet quickly.

As the structures came into view, Spanish flags still waived high in many of the windows of the houses in the distance. This was left over from the Military Parade that had caused a lot of scrambling for pilgrims in the last couple of days.

We were delighted to see that the first prominent building after the bridge was our hotel.

We had made the decision that as the last few days stretched ahead of us, we needed to have a good rest and some privacy.

I was a bit apprehensive when I booked such an inexpensive hotel but I was delighted to see we hit the jackpot.

The place is fairly new, inside it has the preserved arches of a century old building that was torn down long ago. However its last remaining wall has been incorporated into the design of the lobby.

Our room is well appointed and comfortable. Two large balconies facing north west give us the perfect view.

As we settled in we were told we could use the spa facilities. My heart leaped of joy.

We soon left the hotel I searched for a Pincho (Tapas) and a drink. As we walked into the square we were greeted by a city that was alive with residents sitting in outdoor cafes, children running in the square and couples holding hands as they strolled the antique market going on.

I looked around and I realized that the square reminded me of the town square in Milan. Charming, and old are a few ways to describe it.

We found some delicious fare that appealed to the gourmet in us.

We sipped refreshing brews and realized that we had entered Rioja… the birthplace of one our favorite types of wines.

After our eating we realized the hustle and bustle of the midday had died down. Most people had retired for an afternoon siesta. This seemed like a delightful idea and we quickly came back to the hotel. All I remember is laying on the bed and then falling asleep with a deep amazing sleep.

After our delightful siesta we headed to the spa and relaxed in the whirlpool where our aching bodies got some relief. We also used the sauna and then headed back.

For dinner we found a great local brewery. Dinner for Dan was a burger and for me a fish and shrimp bun less burger.

Logroño was coming alive for the evening on a Sunday night. For us, it was the beginning a a long night’s rest.

Tomorrow another day full of new experiences and places.

Many reviews of Albergue de La Abuela talked about what an amazing place it is.

For me I will say that it was nice. If you know me you know that giving something a nice rating is not high in my book.

I was not expecting luxury by any means, it is after all an Albergue. I did expect more warmth from the Hospitaleros and less of a shuttling cattle atmosphere.

This is the first Albergue that Dan and I encountered that assigned us beds. Since we were some of the last arrivals we got a top and a bottom bunk.

Since I am a restless sleeper I prefer a bottom bunk… Dan needs a bottom bunk in order to plug in his sleeping machine.

When we returned to the Albergue after dinner they promptly turned off the lights at 10:00 leaving us in darkness and unable to prepare before bed. Our roommates, a couple from Ireland, promptly went to bed and closed the only window that provided circulation.

My night was long and stressful as I saw the hours pass. At some point Dan knew I was awake because he reached up and rubbed my arm.

I was hot, I was tired, I needed water and yet I was compelled to respect those around me.

This is one of the main lessons of the Camino, you are either a taker or a giver. Sometimes you must be better than those around you and think of those that are in your atmosphere.

At times we want so badly to not care, to not give, not go without. Perhaps our world can be better if we forgot about us and became the givers rather than takes. This may involve sacrifice in our part. However in the end it all works out.

Our walk to Vianna promised to be a fast walk. We confirmed with many fellow pilgrims that it would be crazy to head into Logroño with the military parade going on. If you did not have accommodations booked you would either sleep outside or have to continue to the next town essentially making it a 30+Km day. No thank you!

As we walked, we also knew hat we needed to get into Vianna soon since many Albergues had overflow from Logroño.

The walk was pretty rolling hills wit poppies and yellow flowers. The skies were a bit dark and we hoped the rain would stay away.

As we walked, an older couple from Australia caught up with us. They had reservations in Logroño so they were in for a long day. As we walked, the husbands began to move steadily ahead of us. I told Frankie the wife that I was a slow walker and she told me she was grateful for it since she also was outpaced by her husband.

We had such a delightful talk. She has three daughters back home. One of them has Lupus and she is worried for her. I shared a bit about having Sjogrens and how you learn to live and adjust. Yes you have days Your are reminded that if you don’t take care of yourself you can spiral down quickly. However I assured her life goes on and it sounds like her daughter is like me, determined to live life fully and not allow this to be an impediment.

As the town began to take shape in the distance the skies opened up and water began to fall on us.

We picked up our pace but it was too late. Rain came to plains in Spain.

As we got into town, we noticed a nice new building on the right that proudly read BAR/Albergue.

We went inside to warm up, grab a drink and call a cab. If we continued walking in the rain, we where almost sure we would not find a bed in Vianna. Once the cab had been called we enjoyed the most delicious beer ever. Really… sooo good.

As we waited we lost track of our new Australian Friends. They had hotel reservations in Logroño and I think they wanted to push ahead.

As we sat for a while a Spanish couple in their 60s doing the Camino asked if they could share their cab.

We said yes.

In some ways I do not regret missing the 10.50 km from Torres Del Rio. This stretch of the Camino is referred to as the knee breaker. It is not only a steep hill but a huge drop too. Under normal circumstances this would have been hard, with torrential rain coming down it would have been more challenging. I also thought that with my track record of clumsiness the knee wrecker/breaker would be better left for better weather.

Upon our arrival in Vianna we walked over to the Albergue that had availability. Many of our Camino friends from previous days were there also.

We got checked in by CJ and immediately I knew she was one of those Camino Angels.

In the span of an hour we had settled in, got our laundry on its way with CJ’s help and headed into town for our afternoon Pinchos (tapas and adult beverage)

We explored the town and got to enjoy seeing almost everyone of the 3,500 residents of this village out and about walking outside, talking to their neighbors and friends.

As a border town, Vianna has walls that protect them from enemies. We got to walk through the ruins of an old church dating back to 1000’s

Back at the Albergue, everyone had settled in.

We participated in the pilgrim dinner which was 10€ and included a salad course, rice, vegetables, soup, and main course of pork loin. You could also opt in for pasta. This was too much for me. I did have my last glass of Navarra wine.

After dinner we spoke to a father and daughter from Mexico doing the Camino. They will also meet up with other family and travel until the end of August.

Other interesting people we shared conversation with included a gentleman from New Zealand. He is also traveling for a couple of months. Funny how around the world they live to enjoy life and not to work. Many people define them self’s by what they enjoy, what they feel passionate about and not about where they work and what they do for a living.

This is a good reminder for me.

As I got ready for bed, i climbed to the top of my bunk and then soon realized that I needed to go brush my teeth. Unfortunately Dan was already almost asleep. Then one of the older gentleman who was in our room walking by my bunk asked if I needed help coming down the bunk. I shyly said yes please. As thanked him for his help and started to make my way to the bathroom Dan said to me… see the Camino provides… referring to the help I had received.

I don’t remember falling asleep but I do know that it was a blissful 8+ hours.

I sorry we did not see our friend Johan or others from before, but you never know what or who lays ahead. One thing is for sure. One travels at ones pace. No two Caminos are the same.

Over all, one big lesson is to remember that the right people and places will make their way to you.

Our evening in Villamayor de Monjardin was a quiet one. Despite a nice hot shower and the wonderful compnay of my husband my feet hurt.

My face felt as if I had a sunburn and my feet felt as if I had walked on hot coals.

As we went to dinner at the local Bar (the only choice in town) we saw many familiar faces from the previous two days.

We got a table in the center of the room and thankfully the space was too tight that we did not have room to add chairs to add additional dinner companions.

Part of me felt a bit of guilty for not being social but I did not feel myself.

Sleep for me was restful and I felt more myself as Friday began.

We made the decision that in order to give our body some rest, (mostly my feet) we would send our bags ahead.

This was a wonderful choice that allowed us to be more in the moment while we walked through wheat fields that glistened in the distance. Our goal for the day was easy, we were headed for Los Arcos. Many people were going to push ahead to Torres del Rio but we knew that our slow speed would make us late arrivals and possibly not have a suitable place for the night.

As we walked between the two towns, we knew that there was no rest stop however all of the sudden we saw a sign that advertised a BAR… was this a mirage I though? Was someone trying to play a joke? Thankfully it was no joke and a good truck and tables and chairs appeared in the not too distant future.

The promise of a hot coffee have me the incentive to hasten my step and to get a seat. As we approached we saw more familiar faces. We sat with our friend from the previous Albergue, Johan from Holland.

As we socialized in the bar of the “wheat fields” we learned there is a military parade in Logrono and lodging was going to be a challenge for he next couple of days since thousands of non pilgrims are descending into the city. We were also told that Vianna the town before was already filling out for Saturday.

In my previous Camino adventure I had not had a problem so I did not worry too much.

Funny how in this little place of earth in Northern Spain in between wheat fields and live trees the United Nations was in sessions.

In the short time we were there we we had Spanish, Hungarian, English, Korean, French and German being spoken. At least these are the languages I recognized.

In a short time the conversation turned to world news and of course the current political climate of the US came up. Needless to say, many people around the world share my views that we live in scary times.

Soon someone ordered another beer and we realized that it would be too easy to allow ourselves to just hang out and enjoy the outdoors and conversation.

Sadly we knew it was time to continue to move forward. We said good bye to our friends and moved on. We had several Kilometers to cover and getting bed for the night was a priority.

As we walked some more, I became more aware that I needed a bathroom. At some point we stopped to eat. Dan had bought us supplies that consisted of bread, cheese and salami.

We sat to eat on the wall of a small bridge that had a stream under it. We met a couple from Cape Cod there and we enjoyed their brief company.

After lunch as we began to walk some more I realized that I would need to go to the bathroom au natural. Not my first rodeo here but certainly not my favorite way to go.

Our friend new Dutch Johan caught up to us and he walked with Dan for a bit. I walked on my own and once again I was lost in the beauty of it all.

Upon entering town we found our Albergue Casa de La abuelita. We were lucky enough to get a room on the 3rd floor and we quickly got settled.

Once we showered and changed, we headed out for our afternoon tour of the town.

We walked in the old church. Santa Maria de Asunción which dates back to the 12th century. This was a very unique site. Like the Cathedral in Pamplona this church had a adjacent courtyard with beautiful roses in full bloom in the middle of it.

Many of the intricate wood carvings in the church also showed the influence of the Jewish and Muslim faiths.

As we sat outside later on for dinner with our friend Johan i really like being able to see the towns people come from mass as their ancestors had done for many years back.

At 9:30 we headed black to our Albergue since the doors are closed by 10:00 pm sharp. We spoke to the Albergue owner and he gave us some good tips for the next day.

It wasn’t long when we made it up the stairs that lights were out.

Sleep was not easy for me and I once again tossed and turned to no avail.

Saturday would be an early day.

Our stay at Casa Magica in Villaruerta came to an end.

Most of the people staying in this Albergue have been talking about making it to Mojardin

We began our journey full of promise. After all, anyone who is a pilgrim and has researched they Camino knows that the famous wine fountain of Irache is in your future.

As we walked through the town of Estella we found that there were a lot of people coming from our Albergue to the same town we were heading. It was fun to walk passed them and when you stopped for a rest for your aching feet that they would pass you again.

This is a little game pilgrims in the Camino tend to play.

As we exited the town of Estella, I could not help but to feel the excitement that i was finally going to pass towns I had not been to before.

The town streatched in front of us and soon we felt the need for a coffee. We stopped in a beautifully appointed coffee shop and enjoyed two cafe Americanos with a Pan con Chocolate.

Normally this is so far from my normal breakfast yet I savored every bit of it.

During our breakfast we met Sylvia from Germany, she was sweet and charming. She was doing her second Camino alone. We soon said good bye and began our walk again. Just when I thought the distance was going to be too much for me, we reached the shop of a real old fashion blacksmith.

Dan and I were in awe of his craftsmanship and it was delightful to hear that his craft had been passed down to him from many generations.

He stamped our pilgrim passports and we continued joyfully to the wine fountain where monks have been making wine and providing it to the thirsty pilgrims that passed by their gate for hundreds of years. We took our share of wine, careful to not take advantage but also to have enough to fortify is for the road ahead.

We sat outside the old monastery and talked and loved being with each other. We are fortunate that we tend to do this a lot. As we sat, I noticed more pilgrims passing us with the same destination as ours. I became nervous of not having a place for the night knowing that if we were left without a bed, the next town would be very far to walk to.

For this reason, although what laid ahead was short 6 km walk, I told Dan to push ahead and get us beds.

In retrospect this was probably the best thing we could have done. Each of us for different reasons needed the solitude to conquer the hills ahead. Little did we know that the altitude we would face this day would be higher than the previous day. The only difference is that there would be no rocky steep decline in our near future.

As I walked in solitude I turned on my Camino Playlist. Some Camino Purist feel that it is not a true pilgrimage if you are listening to music. I don’t feel this way. In my life music inspires me, consoles me and helps me move in good rhythm.

This day music was doing its job for me. Hill after hill I was motivated to keep going. Soon I found myself walking inside a path covered with trees that provided shade and was a smooth path.

Soon my luck ran out and I saw in the distance what laid ahead. In the distance at the top of a huge mountain laid the castle that was above the town which was our destination.

I also realized that the steady climb from now on would not include any shade. At this time Dan and I had been apart almost an hour and I knew that if I took too long he would begin to worry.

Over the course of the rest of the afternoon, my resolved was tested several times. The hot sun kept beating down on me, the steep inclines brought on an asthma attack and shortness of breath. I sat for a bit and caught my breath. I then started to see how in life we experience growth in the zones where discomfort is at the maximum. We reach our goals when we climb, when we hit the hard stuff. The growth happens in that sweet spot when the sun is beating down on you and every inch of you is tired and the end is not in site. Growth happens when you pull from deep inside you and keep going.

As the castle in the distance came closer and closer the hills grew steeper and steeper. Over the course of the climb, I knew I needed to take my long sleeve shirt off, I was overheating. I knew I needed my hat but I also knew that meant spending energy on getting my pack off and then putting it on again.

Just like in life we have to choose what we spend our energy on. As a sign came into view telling me I had 1.5 KM I was not sure I would make it.

I encountered a young man from Germany several times during this solo climb. His name is Robin and I chatted with him a bit. He is walking on his own, camping along the way. His pack is way too heavy and he too has figured out that we really don’t need as much as we think we need in life.

The last time I encountered him this day was when I sat on a field contemplating the last hill ahead of me. At this point I knew Dan was probably getting anxious about my delayed arrival. I quickly asked Robin that when he arrived in town to tell the tall guy standing outside looking worried that I was almost there.

A few minutes later it was like a mirage in the distance. My tall handsome husband was at the top of the hill walking down to me.

I could not help but to cry at the beauty of this sight. He was fresh from a shower and his smiled probably matched mine.

As he reached me he tried to take my pack but I refused. After all, this was my journey to accomplish for the day.

Our home for the night was a brand new Albergue that gave us beds on the third floor of course. I could not complain since my bed was next to the balcony that overlooked the church tower and the beautiful Basque countryside. Sleep did not elude me. I was surely overheaded and spent from the day. My body felt the pain of day’s climb, yet my heat interpreted it as a reward.

Tomorrow a new day with new adventures ahead.

(One last thought, as I looked back on the distance I had covered, I realized God is good, he brings us from far places to where we need to be)

One thing about being a pilgrim on the Camino de Santiago is that you become very sensitive about any type of sensation in your body. If for instance your toe nail hurts for a second, you begin to wonder if your whole toe nail is going to fall off.

Today those familiar feelings and thoughts came to mind.

I knew our day was going to be a bit interesting. We were starting from Pamplona and were going to make the iconic climb to Alto del Perdon.

Last time I was in Spain I missed this part of the Camino because I had terrible pain from my Plantarfaciatis and I thought the climb was going to be too much and that I would not be able to make it. In 2016 I took a cab to Uterga where the owner of the Albergue Del Perdon helped me heal and get better in order to continue.

This time I knew the climb was going to be a challenge. Dan is less than thrilled with heights and although I don’t fear them I hate the climbs. They are just hard on me.

As we began the acent on the mountain range, I could see the windmills on the distance. It seemed so far.

The countryside was a beautiful site it was filled with gorgeous greens and scattered red poppies.

Just when I thought I could no longer move on up the trail we got to the top. Dan who had been a few steps ahead of me was sitting waiting for me.

I put my pack down and went over to the iconic pilgrim statues and took the obligatory picture with them. I then asked Dan to come and pose with me and to my delight he did. I know he edge was a little too close for comfort but he did well there.

After a delightful picnic of French bread and havarti cheese we began our decent. I knew from stories and picture that it was a steep decent full of rocks.

The stories and pictures I had seen did not do it any justice. It was so steep and so rocky that you needed to watch your step and proceed with caution. Any false step meant you could really fall and get seriously injured. This is where my body began sending me tons of signals like “hey these are your thighs, you have not used this muscle group for a while so we will be transforming to jello now” or my shoulders saying “hey, what is up with this heavy pack on us… we were meant for cold shoulder shirts or this”.

At one point I though i was going to not make it. My walking sticks were not helping me and I was ready to just be air lifted out. At this point as the saying goes, the Camino provides. Out of nowhere this nice older French gentleman came over and walked up to me and said “allonger vos poles” or make your poles longer. Wouldn’t you know it but this made a whole lot of difference.

Actually it was life changing! This knight in shinning backpacker was gone before I knew it. As iI descended more easily, I found myself wishing I had told him to find the tall American walking up ahead and tell him the same thing. As I finally caught up with Dan he told me that he was saved by a Frenchman that told him to lengthen his poles.

As we made it to the village of Uterga we went to grab a coffee from the Albergue where I had stayed before. I saw Anna the owner who had helped me so two years ago. It turned out she remembered me and we hugged as long lost friends usually do.

We stayed there for a bit and as we had coffee and a small meal we met a family from Belgium also walking together. It was so cool to hear the Mom share that her 10 year old son was missing almost a month of school but that this was no problem. After all as in most of Europe, travel is considered as such an enriching experience that it is not a big deal for kids to be out.

The rest of our afternoon consisted of a small cab ride to get to the town where I had finished my journey during my last Camino. From there we made it to Villaruerta where we checked in to the Casa Magica or Magic House. This was going to be our first real Albergue experience together. Dan quilckly learn the pilgrim routine and we showered change and got our clothes ready to wash. It turns out that as Dan waited to wash our clothes he met a couple from Houston. We enjoyed some nice conversation before they left to nap for a bit. As our clothes dried we got a bottle of wine, and talked about our day.

Yes there are a few body parts that hurt, perhaps every new uncomfortable sensation makes you wonder if this is the beginning of something more serious.

Dan had a good laugh as well reminiscing about he guy that asked me if I was a Mayan Indian.

Perhaps…. however today, I am just a typical pilgrim connecting with the journey that is the Camino and also one that makes friendships I am sure will last a lifetime.

Our dinner consisted of a huge Paella which is what this Albergue is know for, we shared our meal with Chris and Mark from Texas and now we are tucked in to our beds excited for what it is to come.

I really don’t do well with waking up early.

In order to catch our 12:05 flight to Pamplona from Madrid, we needed to leave Geneva at 7:00 am. This meant getting up at 4:30 a.m.

As a non morning person, this drives me crazy. I am always so anxious that I will oversleep that I don’t sleep at all.

Last night was no exception. I tossed and turned, meditated, prayed, counted sheep and read to no avail.

I finally gave up and decided to get up and get going.

In a reversal of roles, Dan was slow to wake and get going. Once we left my cousin’s place, we walked to the tram for the four stops to the main station to get the train to the airport. This was going to be a short 28 minutes trip. Geneva has an amazing infrastructure and getting to the airport is usually breeze. My cousin assured me it was fool proof. She was right, most fools could get there. However Dan and I struggled a bit to make the change.

I made us get off a the “gare” but I second guessed the way to go. In the span of 10 minutes I managed to take us up to the airport’ train platform, down to the airport bus stop, back out to the tram that had just dropped us off. I also made us take it another stop just to walk back to the train station we had just comed from. In my less than perfect French, I asked several residents of Geneva where was the train to the airport. Only then did we finally find the right platform and got onto the nice new efficient and modern train for the one stop ride to the airport.

This little excercie of find your way ironically reminded me of an episode of the Amazing Race.

As today’s contestants, we tried to find our way in the dark hours prior to sunrise, navigated another language and walked in a few wrong directions prior to finding the right “Way” to go.

The truth about traveling with someone you love is that at one point or another you must ltake into account who they are and how they approach life. Once you do this you must learn to work together, find a compromise and not take it all too personally as you find that you are tired and under the pressure of the moment.

As we finally arrived at Geneva airport we held hands and moved on to the next thing which was getting our flight on time.

Dan was asked to check his bag because it is too big for the overhead compartment. The possibility of it not arriving in Pamplona gives us pause but we know that if it doesn’t arrive we won’t be sad, just roll with it.

As for me, even though I did not have to check my back I was flagged for a pat down from a Swiss security lady that would make the prison guards at Rikkers prison blush. In all my time of traveling, I have never had a patdown so intense that I would have suggested to anyone else that they get a room with the security lady.

When that was over, the Swiss guard was not done with me. They searched my bag so meticulously that every compression bag was pulled out of my pack and opened.

Apparently the issue is that I had the “Santo Remedio” analgesic rubbing pain med outside of a bag. Upon completion of the unpacking of my bag he put it in a nice new zip lock for me. I then asked him if I could have a couple extras for any “just in case” moment in my Camino. He complied and I felt I had walked away a winner.

Our connecting gave us a 3 hour window. This window was spent trying to sleep while Dan diligently checked the monitor for the flight to Pamplona that was not listed.

In the end, we figured out the gate and stood in line. Here are a few other pilgrims on our flight. I spoke to a couple of th older ladies and waited and waited.

Finally although there was no direction from the monitors we figured out our gate and began to board a bus that took us to the plane.

The short 35 minute fligh was easy. Inince again tried to sleep to no avail. As Pamplona came into view I felt my heart race and my eyes wellup with tears. I was back to the Camino and although my feet hurt i was here to complete it. These tears and high emotions stayed with me until I got to the city proper.

We quickly found our hotel in Calle San German. We soon learned that this hotel had a self check in policy. You use your code to go in the door, you then go up a set of stairs and check in using an ATM sort of machine. The hotels is newly renovated but I did not like now having a choice with dealing with a human.

We were given a room on the 4th floor which is really the 6th floor. We schlepped 6 flights of stairs only to find that each landing the hotel had these awesome inspirational quotes like “the only way to fail is to not complete the journey”.

This one in particular was made for me since I had been feeling so anxious the previous night about this whole walk and whether I was crazy about this undertaking with all of its physical challenges.

My feel have been hurting and I have began to feel the familiar pain of Plnatarfacatis on my feet. I have began to stretch diligently and thanks to my PnP girls began some mental work too. After all the mind is the muscle that has to be exercised most.

After settleling in to the hotel we re arranged our bags and took our Geneva and Paris clothes to the post office a short walk away.

We then found a combo lunch dinner although by Spanish standards it is early for dinner since it was about 3:30pm. At this time most of Pamplona old city proper is closed. Here people close for lunch, people go home and business close. People come back and re open around 4:00 pm and dinner is some time at around 9:00 pm. This is my time table for sure.

Our meal consisted of the pilgrim dinner special, grilled chicken breast, grilled peppers, one crouquette, Russian potatoe, French fries.

It was a lot of food and I ate but could not finish the entire thing.

We had some nice cold beers and headed out to explore. We went to the cathedral and passed the Citidel. Which consequently is the oldest in the world. There were to others that were built before but have long since disappeared, making this one the oldest. We toured the inside of the Cathedral which was ornately decorated and filled with treasured dating back to the early 1 century. Yes over 2000 yeas old.

They have done a fantastic job preserving everything and having it on display. The church was wonderfully cool and our tour was delightful. We sat outside by the walls of the ancient city. Looked at the view and then started to explore further. We walked by Hemingway’s old stoping grounds and by this time the city was slowly coming alive. By providence or coincidence we found a small place that advertised food massages with a hot epson salt soak. We did not even think twice but signed up right away. The small quaint spa looked like a combo ancient Roman bath and New Age Yoga studio.

We both had the most amazing foot soaks and massages that had us falling asleep like babies. After the 1/2 respite we bought some provisions for the morning and headed back to the hotel. We arrived around 6:30 ish and repacked. I showered in the most delightful shower and climbed in bed. Took 3 magnesium pills and 2 Advil pm for good measure, plugged in our electronics and promptly went to dream land. This morning I woke up to he quit sounds of doves singing in the distant. The city is beginning to come alive.

Today we walk. One step in front of the other is my goal.

I can’t wait to see that the road holds for us.

Miles walk today 8…

It has been 18 hours since our arrival in Geneva, Switzerland. It has also been 11 years since I last saw my cousin Tati.

I have heard it said that your first cousins are your first friends. In this case this could not be any more accurate.

Maria Antonieta or Tati as we all call her, is the oldest of 3 kids as well. Her dad and my mom siblings.

Growing up in El Salvador, between the ages of 5 and 11 her and I along with our siblings were all inseparable.

I have many fond memories of riding our bikes, roller skating, playing house and even putting on elaborate shows choreographed by yours truly.

As we moved to Miami with our mom in the early 80’s we did not see each other often but when we did it was as if all of us had never been apart.

After finishing architectural school, she married and moved to Geneva to be with hew brilliant husband who was studying music here. He is also an architect but moved here to follow his passion to become a composer and grow as a musician. To this day he is a well known and respected teacher and performer here and internationally.

Over the years I have always said I was going to come and visit and for one reason of another I have not. This year however I decided that it was the year to visit. Her two children who I had met in El Salvador during a visit where now growing up and I needed to catch up and get to know them more prior to them growing up and moving on in life.

So after our wonderful Parisian adventure we headed to Geneva. My intention was primarily to visit and to reconnect.

Our visit to this wonderful city was so much more. Tati met Dan and I at the airport and we took the train and a tram to her house. Like most residents of Geneva she does not have a car and it would have been a sight to see should she have chosen to pick is up in her bicycle.

As we arrived in her home ( after a 23 minute ride and walk) we were greeted by a gregarious and welcoming Carlos Arturo (her composer husband).

Once again it was as if no time had passed since I had seen him last. The years have been kind to both of them and it was easy to feel at home by their open and loving ways.

This was the first time Dan met them and despite this, he too felt welcomed and embraced.

At the house we were also greeted by their 14 year old daughter Eva. The last time I had seen her she was a precautious toddler with an adorable smile. Today she is a lovely young woman with intelligence and a heart of gold. Their oldest son Sebastian was at a Confirmation Retreat.

It was easy to feel at home in their place and as we began to catch up and laugh we all knew we were in for an amazing time together.

We knew that although our time was short it was our challenge to make the best of it.

As we settled in, we all agreed that a quick tour of their neighborhood and Geneva was in order.

Coincidently, it just so happens that the Camino de Santiago also passes by in front of their house. In other worlds we were already on the Camino while visiting here.

As the five of us set out last night at around 7:45 pm, we began to wind our way down the street in the search for the official markers that showed we were on the Camino. It did not take long to find the familiar “shell” that confirmed that this was part of one of the routes to Santiago.

We made our way down the street and began to look for more signs and perhaps a place where we could have our official pilgrim passport stamped.

Unfortunately, since it was late on a Sunday nigh and the churches were closed the best thing we could find was a map that delineated the official route of the Camino through Geneva. Of course the five of us pointed and laughed like children finding a delightful surprise.

As dusk fell upon the city, we made our way to the famous Lake Geneva by foot. We took our obligatory picture in front of the Flower Clock at the base of the Lake and we found the perfect spot for a delightful picnic that included a feast of gourmet cheeses, hams, fresh baked breads and of course wine.

As night began to fall, we talked, laughed reconnected and enjoyed the bonds of a childhood relationship that now extended to an adult friendship that included laughter and reminiscing of good times shared in the past. As the night chill increased we realized that it was close to 11:30 p.m.

The lateness in hour reminded me that I am more cut out to live in a cosmopolitan area where at this “late” hour, many feel the night is young and just beginning. The streets were still full of people coming and going not caring that a new work week was beginning in a few short hours.

We began to gather our stuff and quickly found the tram that in no time had us back to their home.

As we settled in, Carlos Arturo began to bring out a few choice selections for a small night cap. Our choices included offerings from around the world. After all as a well traveled composer, he gets to visit some amazing places to perform his incredible music.

In once short period of the evening, we tasted a Hungarian liquor with a slight yet delightful licorice taste, a Chilean Pisco with a smooth flavor a bit of Rum the Cana from our beautiful El Salvador and last but not least one of my favorites Russian Standard Vodka straight from Russia.

During the last part of the night, we laughed some more, talked about the places we have seen around the world and more importantly Dan and Arturo connected with a common language. Music. Funny how two men from two very different backgrounds could share the same passion for Rock and metal. At one point of the night I was amazed how easily it was for my cousin and her husband to flow in and out of a bilingual conversation and now it looked like the guys had found and additional language to share through music.

At one point, Arturo took out his electric guitar and played a few cords for Dan to hear and recognize different songs from classic metal rock to a bit or classical too.

Eventually, despite the fact that we could have stayed up all night, we all sensibly went to bed in order to rest for the day ahead.

Today Carlos Arturo would only spend part of the day with us since he is heading to St. Petersburg Russia to perform an original work with another talented musician friend of his at the Russian Symphony.

Our morning began after a restful 8 hours of sleep. The Corrales family treated us to a typical European breakfast of fresh fruits, jams, freshly baked croissants and breads from the bakery down the block, fresh grouyer cheese and eggs with ham. As the previous nigh, the conversation and laughter flowed. We talked more about our respective lives, we shared fond memories and then talked a bit about those we love and have lost. Our grandparents, and our beloved older cousin Hector.

Once again the bonds of our childhood made way creating and strengthening the new bonds of a blooming friendship.

After breakfast we said our “hasta luego” to Arturo and Dan and I headed out with Tati and Eva to explore a nearby Swiss village.

It did not take us long to arrive in this charming village by train. It turns out that Nyon is on the banks of Lake Geneva overlooking the Swiss and French Alps in the distance.

Our day was spent exploring this place while finding its original roots to Roman times. We also explored a castle that was built in the 1600 by a particular aristocrat that loved roses had had them planted all around the town and it’s steep hills.

As we sat on the castle walls we were able to enjoy the beauty of the Lake and the charming architecture of the village homes.

We grabbed a late lunch at a crape place and had more animated conversation between us

As the afternoon drew to a close we headed back to the city proper. Here is where Eva went home and we met up with Tati’s son Sebastian who had returned from his confirmation retreat.

Although at first I did not recognize this handsome young man, soon enough I saw the young boy I had last seen at age five. He was quick to remember that we celebrated a Piñata for him in El Salvador and that My sisters and I had given him Spider-Man gear. To my surprise and delight, he shared that he still has the Spider-Man mask he got from me long ago.

After another walk on the other side of the lake, we returned home to pack and get ready for our early flight to Spain. Our evening was complete when we shared a typical Swiss fondu meal of beef and a yellow risotto. Over the course of our meal🍢 Dan and shared about our life and home back in CT, my job in NY and the kids shared about school.

On a side note, a typical school schedule in Geneva for a middle schooler and HS Freshman include 7 hours of school with a two hour lunch to come home, little to NO homework but plenty of times to pursue hobbies like music and sports. Sebastian has Fridays off and Eva Wednesdays. Both teens are more 100% proficient in 3 languages, love math and science and are accomplished musicians in their own right. Sebastian plays the piano and is considered a concert pianist, teaches music and to my delight he plays the drums.

Our fondu feast concluded after sharing of childhood memories between their mom and I, and giving them a glimpse at the rich heritage and stories about our grandparent who were also accomplished mathematicians, teachers and pianist.

Tonight, we agreed that our next visit to Geneva will be a week minimum. Now our packs are stuffed and we hope to get a good night’s sleep prior to our early morning flight to Spain.

I am such a believer that travel enriches the soul. The last couple of days reaffirm this and remind me that it also allows us connect in a deeper way to who we are and where we come from.

I love the smell of roses. They remind me of my grandmother and of love.

Today after a very satisfying breakfast croissant and black coffee Dan was dragged to see this other magnificent place where art is housed. We passed the army museum on the way and I noticed his slight disappointment as we continued on to the Musee Rodin.

During our visit I was reminded of how beautiful and complicate life can be. Sometimes like his sculptures we spend a lot of time perfecting a model in clay, we then move to another medium and many times we are never satisfied with the product of our efforts. We sometimes go as far as scrapping the whole thing.

Rodin was complicated and to me, his perfectionism and self criticism is something I identify with.

As we took a walk around the house where he lived surrounded by the many statues I was transported and could almost envision him working on multiple models as the soft breeze with the scent of the roses from the garden drifted inside the home.

I wish I could have actually watched him work. As he meticulously worked to recreate the intricacies of the human body. I also wished I was a part of the gathering when the likes of Monet were welcomes to his home.

As we continued the tour Dan reminded me how his mind unlike mine pays attention to things in very different ways. It is as if he is the left brain and I am the right brain of a whole. In some ways as a couple we do compliment each other so well.

This time is a good reminder that as husband and wife we are two parts of a whole and the sharing of these experiences will help us reconnect and strengthen the bonds we have. After all real everyday life has a way of testing our bonds and making us take for granted the great treasures of our life.

On a final note, I am convinced more than ever that roses are the most beautiful flowers. Their scent will always bring a smile to my face.

Now to begin the journey to Geneva. I am looking forward to the joy of my visit ahead.

In six hours we will be in the city of love as a pre-curser to our Camino Adventure.

The road has been long and at times hectic but I can’t wait to begin our journey.

Tomorrow morning there may be a scrumptious Parisian croissant in my future.

We have received so many wonderful wishes for a safe and wonderful trip. We are “blessed” to be surround by such wonderful friends and family.

For those who have never venture abroad? What is stopping you?

The world is an amazing place full of amazing people venture out. See it for yourself.